Our Guide to the Bath Literary Festival
August 24, 2023
Visiting the Cotswolds in Autumn
& The Festive Season
The Cotswolds is a stunning region to visit whatever time of year, and most visitors unsurprisingly arrive in the late spring and summer months. However, arguably the best time to visit is in the autumn months and in the lead-up to Christmas. Whilst the summer months offer mild weather and long days, as the days shorten and the leaves begin to turn, the Cotswolds undergo its own transformation that is thrilling to watch and experience. The sun begins to set lower in the sky, casting penetrating golden rays across the landscape as the greens of the summer months are replaced with the yellows, ochres and reds of autumn. By late October, the region is awash with rich amber hues as the leaf-fall creates golden carpets underfoot, emphasised by the honey-coloured stone of the houses and the golden rays of the sun. This is the time to visit.
Whilst most visitors have been and gone, exploring the Cotswolds on foot, navigating footpaths encased in wellies in a thick, warm coat and stopping at an ancient stone inn to enjoy a hearty yet exquisite meal with drinks beside the fire is unforgettable. Similarly, heading down narrow historic tracks to admire stunning vistas and exploring tiny settlements that seem to have remained unchanged for centuries are truly experiences that lift the soul.
For those curious, inquisitive visitors looking to go deeper than the average tourist, here are some of our top suggestions for visiting the Cotswolds in Autumn…
Exploring the Cotswolds in Autumn by Car
One of the best ways to see the Cotswolds is by getting off the main roads and diving down the ancient tracks and routes that have connected local villages, towns and fields for centuries if not millennia. Most of these were only tarred in the mid-20th Century, and the most magnificent discoveries in the Cotswolds can only be found by escaping off the ‘A’ roads that crisscross the region and getting into the real, hidden Cotswolds. For adventurers willing to risk heading off-piste, countless rewards beckon. It is almost impossible to travel down these historic roads and not be awed by the incredible landscapes, settlements and medieval manor houses and farms that you will chance upon. Around almost every corner is another gem or discovery to be enjoyed.
Tip: The challenge however is the driving itself, as most of these lanes, being designed for horses and the odd cart centuries ago, are extremely narrow with passing places to slip by vehicles coming in the opposite direction. Therefore, it is almost always better to hire a local driver or guide to take you off the beaten track and deep into this evocative yet remote world.
Gardens, Nature & Landscapes
The Cotswolds is a rural area awash with farms, fields, livestock, woods and, increasingly, thoroughbred horses. Its natural beauty is very much part of its charm, however, the region is also home to some of the most magnificent gardens and arboretums in northern Europe. One such example is Westonbirt Arboretum in the southern Cotswolds, a stone’s throw away from King Charles’ Highgrove Estate.
Founded in the 19th century by a wealthy local landowner, Westonbirt Arboretum is home to a world-class collection of trees. A fabulous destination for nature lovers at any time of the year, the months of October and November are when the Arboretum is at its most dramatic. Westonbirt boasts one of the largest collections of different species of maple and acer trees anywhere in the world. Visit in late October/early November and Maple Avenue is majestic. This ½ mile or so long avenue is a riot of colour as the leaves of its beautiful specimens become rich burgundies, golds, yellows and scarlets and begin to fall coating the ground in a brightly mottled carpet that swishes underfoot. The experience is something akin to the cherry blossom in Japan - it’s truly extraordinary.
Tip: similarly, Batsford Arboretum, close to the popular towns of Chipping Campden, Stow-on-the-Wold and Bourton-on-the-Water offers a similar experience in the northern end of the Cotswolds.
Grand Houses & Castles
Like much of the rest of the UK, the Cotswolds is teeming with numerous grand houses, gardens and castles open to the public. Whereas the summer sees peak numbers visiting these stunning properties and their grounds, visits in the autumn months allow for a quieter, more contemplative experience.
The National Trust, a charitable organisation established in the 19th Century to preserve significant landscapes and historic sites in the public’s interest has many such properties open to the public across the Cotswolds. These properties range from grand country houses and estates to smaller, more intimate properties with dates ranging from the 1400s-1500s up to the Victorian era.
Some of the most interesting include:
Lacock Abbey, just east of Bath, in the preserved medieval village of Lacock is the birthplace of the negative photographic process, as well as being a major filming location for the Harry Potter films and the 1990’s adaptation of ‘Pride and Prejudice’ and more.
Chastleton House in the central-eastern part of the Cotswolds is a prime example of a Jacobean country house dating back to the 1600s. Built in the early 1600s, the house has been lovingly preserved and restored and retains many of its original features including its 17th-century furniture and oak panelling.
- Woodchester Park is one of the Trust’s most unusual properties. Located in the oft-bypassed western Cotswolds, the house was to be a grand Gothic mansion - the vision of an ambitious Victorian gentleman. He ran out of money halfway through the project, leaving the building half-completed, and without many of its floors. It’s a truly unique, and slightly eerie, place to visit but is really worth checking out.
Snowshill Manor in the northern Cotswolds is a personal favourite. Built as the manor house to the nearby village in medieval times, it was acquired by an eccentric English gentleman in the 1920s who proceeded to fill it with his vast collection of curiosities from around the world and transformed the grounds into an incredible Arts and crafts garden.
Tip: There are also numerous other grand houses to see that are not National Trust owned and run.
One of the most impressive is Sudeley Castle. This ancient property began life as a small fortified manor and evolved into an impressive medieval fortress, before transforming again into a more comfort-orientated family home. The grounds are breathtaking, the interiors are stunning, and in the chapel rests the tomb of Henry VIII’s last wife, Catherine Parr.
Wherever you stay in the Cotswolds, you’ll never be far from some interesting grand house or estate, and the opportunity to explore such historic, architectural and cultural gems away from the crowds is an opportunity worth seizing. Not only that, but many often offer seasonal events and exhibitions, such as Christmas-themed specials in these months adding extra value for visitors to these places coming outside of the summer months.
Activities in the Cotswolds
Being a rural area that is easily accessible, it is unsurprising that the Cotswolds region hosts all sorts of activities both of the outdoor variety sort, and the more genteel sort, depending on your interests.
The autumn and festive months are often the ideal time for many activities as a result of the weather at this time of year. Certain, seasonal activities such as pheasant shooting are hugely popular in the Cotswolds, and there are numerous providers offering the opportunity to join a shooting party from late October onwards. Many of these are historic and run by grand estates making the entire occasion much more than simply an activity, with drinks, meals and lots of conversation and networking very much part of the experience.
4x4 off-roading is another very popular autumn/winter pastime and outfits like Cotswolds Driving Experiences offer great experiences year road, but undoubtedly the most fun to be had in a 4x4 has to be in the wetter, colder months. Sliding around, losing the nose of a large 4x4 into a puddle, only to re-emerge seconds later, and spraying the surrounding landscape with mud as your thick, over-sized tyres struggle to find grip is a lot of fun that can’t really be replicated in the warmer, dryer months.
Other popular outdoor activities in the Cotswolds include clay pigeon shooting, falconry, walking, horse-riding, watersports (yes, the Cotswolds has its own Cotswolds Water Park with open swimming, sailing, wind-sailing and lots else besides) and more - even sheep herding.
Tip: All are available year-round and visits in early October are likely to allow visitors to take advantage of cheaper rates and accommodation but also mild weather and a landscape at, arguably, its most beautiful.
Craft Foods, Beverages & Produce
In the past 20 years, the Cotswolds has become a centre of excellence for incredible cuisine and artisanal food and beverage production. As the super-rich (and simply rich!) have moved into the area, they have been followed by a breadth of artisans and passionate entrepreneurs who have dreamt of starting their own niche businesses producing gin, whiskey, organic meat etc.
The region boasts some of the most revered farm shops in the country with the most famous being Daylesford Farm. Established over 30 years ago, Daylesford was at the forefront of the organic, local, fresh farming movement and has since become the archetype of what a high-end farm shop should be, and a favourite haunt of the rich and well-to-do.
However, the Cotswolds is home to exceptional food and beverage artisanal producers aplenty. The region abounds with artisan beverage producers from the international award-winning Garden Swift gin company whose Blood Orange Gin was begun in the owner’s garage, and quickly won international acclaim from every corner of the globe to specialist food producers like The Real Boar Co..
Tip: There are too many exceptional artisan producers to list. However, many of them offer tastings and tours of their production facilities meaning that food lovers can enjoy incredible food and drink across the Cotswolds, whether at the place of origin for many of these fine foods and drinks, or prepared at the many historic inns and restaurants that are dotted across the region.
Spa Stays & Wellness Retreats
Another compelling reason to visit the Cotswolds in the autumn and festive months is to get access to some of the best hotels in the area at reduced rates and with the benefit of having to share their excellent facilities and service with fewer other guests.
The Cotswolds is unsurprisingly home to a significant number of luxury hotels, many are former grand houses and estates that offer excellent spa facilities, golf courses and more - making them inviting destinations in themselves, especially when the days shorten, the air cools, and snuggling up in the warmth whilst indulging the senses becomes more of a priority.
Some of the best Cotswolds hotels for this kind of stay include…
Lucknam Park - This Palladian grand house and estate just 20 minutes from the Georgian city of Bath can’t help but evoke thoughts of Jane Austen, bonnets and carriages, and is one of the premier hotels in the southern Cotswolds. The former house, stables and estate cottages have been converted into luxurious rooms and self-catered holiday homes and the hotel’s facilities include one of the most impressive spas in the country, two award-winning restaurants, a horse-riding stable and school, and a foraging kitchen, plus more for guests to enjoy and indulge.
Whatley Manor - Another former grand house and estate, this time located outside of the ancient medieval town of Malmesbury, Whatley Manor prides itself on being a refuge from the world, and once you enter its gates, it really does feel as if you’ve left the hustle and bustle of the wider world behind. The hotel offers an exceptional spa, and incredible dining and is at the forefront of the movement to become carbon-neutral and sustainable. The rooms are sumptuous and the service is impeccable meaning many visitors plan their visit with no intention of ever leaving the hotel’s grounds!
Dormy House - This incredible property lies in stunning countryside between Chipping Campden and Broadway, two of the prettiest towns in the northern Cotswolds. Another historic property, Dormy House is all about wellness, stillness and relaxation. Its design philosophy is all about clean lines, minimalism and luxury. It is ‘Zen’ in the Cotswolds. Dormy House’s spa has won awards since it opened and continues to do so and it also boasts incredible dining and a range of activities as well as truly extraordinary sights and places to visit nearby.
Tip: Most hotels offer great packages at this time of year that can only be found on their websites so check them out first. Also, don’t be afraid to get in touch and ask if any packages are available. Most UK hotels experience a lull in late October and November so would be happy to offer a great deal to win your custom.
Festive Events & Christmas Stays
Many of the towns, attractions and hotels in the Cotswolds gear up for Christmas by offering a range of special events, activities and offers in the build-up to the year’s biggest public holiday, and some of these are absolutely magical.
Attractions like Westonbirt Arboretum and Sudeley Castle offer truly extraordinary seasonal specials that can only be enjoyed in the autumn and/or festive season. Westonbirt’s offering, for example, is called ‘Enchanted Christmas’ and runs for several weeks. Over this period a trail through part of the arboretum is illuminated with lights, creating a magical journey through the trees for adults and children alike. Along with a Christmas village, rides and refreshments, the experience is utterly mesmerizing and memorable and a cultural experience equal to anything the summer months have to offer.
An experience of a very different kind, that really is best had in the festive season is hearing the divinely evocative harmonies of a church choir. Evensong is a regular event at the larger cathedrals, abbeys and churches in and on the periphery of the Cotswolds, particularly Bath, Cirencester, Cheltenham, Malmesbury and Tewkesbury. However, the opportunity to listen to these choirs when these magnificent churches are lit up, the sky outside is black, and the musical programme consists of Christmas carols is truly magical. Look at the Choral Evensong website for more information on where and when these mystical experiences can be found.
Bath’s Christmas Market is probably the most popular, having begun in the early 2000s and now attracting hundreds of stalls, and thousands of visitors over its three or so weeks of operation.
Tip: Towns, such as Bath, Cirencester and Cheltenham as well as some of the smaller, historic market towns of the region, such as Bradford-on-Avon host Christmas Markets in the latter part of November and early December.
What they all have in common, however, is the chance to enjoy a beautiful, historic town and a really special cultural experience that is both fun, varied and memorable, as well as the opportunity to acquire a few festive gifts that you simply wouldn’t find anywhere else.
In Summary
The Cotswolds in the autumn and festive seasons offer a magical, quieter, and more contemplative experience. As the landscape transforms with vibrant autumn colours, there are unique opportunities to explore the region.
Visitors can enjoy hidden gems along ancient lanes, revel in the dramatic displays of colour at places like Westonbirt Arboretum, and explore grand houses and castles with fewer crowds. Outdoor activities, artisanal food and beverage producers, and wellness retreats add to the diverse experiences available.
The festive season brings enchanting events, such as the Enchanted Christmas at Westonbirt Arboretum and the harmonious sounds of church choirs during Evensong. Christmas markets in historic towns offer unique gifts and a holiday atmosphere.
In summary, Cotswolds in the autumn and festive season provide a rich tapestry of experiences, inviting visitors to create lasting memories in this enchanting part of England. If you’re planning a visit to the Cotswolds during this time of year then we recommend our festive season tour. Click here to learn more.
Written by,
Jules Mittra and the team at In & Beyond Bath
